Wide field - M16 area

[dsnay]

Hi all,

I thought I'd try something different the other night, so I connected my DSI Pro to a 50mm lens riding piggyback on my LX90. I was surprised how much data I collected with short exposures in all three channels, given how insensitive this camera has been to green on most other objects. Anyway, here's what I've got so far. It's only been merged and very slightly adjusted with levels and curves. I don't know what I should be shooting for regarding colors in that area and I don't know where to go next.



There's way too much noise for my liking, but that could be due to how I've been working. I've been having the software save the data as FITS files after it performs automatic dark frame subtraction. I'm sure I'll get better results if I learn how to do the darks on my own, but I also want to limit the variables in my learning curve for now.

I've been using FITS file format because it's 16 bits, but I think I'll be going back to tiff format because it's easier, and hopefully cleaner, to import to PS7. I have to use a fits liberator tool to import FITS and there are adjustments made at that time that might be introducing noise as well.

This image is made up of 20x20" for each RGB channel.

I will be going back to Jerry Lodriguss's CD to look for techniques, but thought I'd share what I have so far anyway. Any/all suggestions welcome.

Dave

I just realized that I should include that this image was shot through high, thin clouds and was low on the horizon.

[twilbur]

Cool! 
I missed this one, I think you're on the right track going wide field.

I think color balance will regularly be a problem given the way the camera is responding. Using Rick's method of using the blue to beef up the green is probably what you'll have to do each time.

I'd try:
Longer exposures
More frames for dark subtraction
Aggressive hot and cold pixel removal prior to combining sub-exposures
Shooting targets higher in the sky

This looks like a very encouraging result!

[dsnay]

Cool! 
I missed this one, I think you're on the right track going wide field.

I think color balance will regularly be a problem given the way the camera is responding. Using Rick's method of using the blue to beef up the green is probably what you'll have to do each time.

I'd try:
Longer exposures
More frames for dark subtraction
Aggressive hot and cold pixel removal prior to combining sub-exposures
Shooting targets higher in the sky

This looks like a very encouraging result! 

Thanks Ted,

Longer exposures are probably not realistic on this mount without some sort of guiding. Maybe I can get the LPI to see something through the scope as long as I'm piggybacking the imager.
I can certainly do more dark frames. I'm not sure how they'll be incorperated by the software tho.
I can do hot/cold pixel removal prior to combining the color sets via Autostar Suite's Image Processing software. I'll have to give it a try.

Sounds like some good things to play around with, assuming the temps come down a bit soon. I just don't feel like sitting out there in 80 degree temps with skeeters buzzing around. I know, I know, I'll be wishing for these temps in a few months.

Dave